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Old January 05, 2013, 23:26   #1
keith9365
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gas system problem

I just bought an enterprise arms IIIC fal and took it to the range. It wouldnt cycle on any setting. No, the gas plug is not in upside down. The bolt would rocoil some but not eject, even with a round in the chamber and no mag firing. I think my gas vent is either too small or out of alignment with the block. I wrapped plastic around the flash hider, blocked the chamber, and blew down the barrel with the piston out of the gun and didnt feel air come down the gas tube. Any suggestions?
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Old January 05, 2013, 23:28   #2
keith9365
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one more thing, I had to pogo the gun to get the spend case out.
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Old January 06, 2013, 00:11   #3
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http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108077 Due to the many, many threads dealing with failure to feed and failure to extract problems, I decided to put up this FAQ dealing with that subject.

First, ensure that the extractor is not broken or worn badly. Also, make sure your gas piston is not bent and the barrel is timed properly. (Search two AND rods AND method )

Among the most common symptoms of FTF/FTE (failure to feed, failure to extract) are the following:

1. Bolt riding over the cartridge either causing a jam or missing the cartridge altogether

2. New cartridge only partially chambers, spent casing extracts and may or may not eject

3. New cartridge jamming against back of receiver

4. No apparent movement of bolt or carrier regardless of gas setting

5. Partial extraction of spent casing regardless of gas setting, casing jams hard in chamber

6. Gas tube blows out of gas block

7. I've done all the stuff to get more gas but my FAL STILL won't cycle properly.

8. Bolt closes easily on headspace guage but will not chamber round. Jams up tight.

FIRST, have you checked and made sure that your extractor hasn't broken?

I will deal with them in order.

Before you do anything, ensure that the rifle is assembled correctly and there are no broken parts.

1. Bolt riding over the cartridge – This is a FTF problem and can almost always be traced to three common problems.

a. First, check to see if the magazine is being held in the mag well tightly. If it is loose, your problem is most likely a mag catch that is too short. The solution is to replace it with one with an extended mag catch. Tapco offers extended mag catches for about $10 (note: Tapco no longer sells these, others may but I don't know). Alternately you could weld a small bead onto the end, probably no more than 1/16" to 1/8" will be plenty. In either case you will have to “file to fit” for a good tight hold.

b. Second, take the bolt and carrier out and remove the dust cover and close the rifle. Insert a mag with at least two cartridges into the mag well. Now look at the mag from the top of the receiver to see if the mag looks like it is symmetrically positioned in the well, especially near the front. Most often it is well used mags that have this problem which will manifest itself as a FTF from one side of the mag or the other. Also, check the mag for a weak spring. In either case. Get a new mag and throw this one away. (Yes, you can replace a weak spring if you have another bad mag laying around but at $10 each for new mags, it is hardly worth it.)

c. Third, look for long fairly deep scratches in the cases of cartridges that have jammed. This is usually caused by sharp edges on the feed plate at the top of the mag well and more often on cartridges that feed from the left than the right. Polish the edges of the feed plate with 400 grit wet or dry or finer.

2. New cartridge only partially chambers, spent casing extracts and may or may not eject

a. If the spent casing ejects reliably, check to see if the bolt carrier moves easily in the rails. Imbel GL (gear logo) receivers are well made but a common problem is that the receiver rail is directly beneath some of the lettering stampings and occasionally gets distorted from an overzealous machine operator. Gunplumber suggests taking a small bastard file and gently but firmly filing the “hump” off.

b. If you have an aftermarket HTS (hammer, trigger, sear) combo installed, remove and replace them with the pieces that were provided with the kit for troubleshooting. Century is not known for tight adherence to tolerances and their HTS will often cause FTF problems because they drag on the bottom of the bolt or carrier.

c. Make sure that the recoil tube is straight and undamaged and that the spring and recoil plunger are lightly greased. A small amount of grease will not cause the rifle to lock up.

d. Check for weak recoil spring. R&R as necessary.

e. Perform gas checks in Number 4. c, d, e, f, and i.

3. New cartridge jamming against back of receiver

a. This is most common with Century receivers. I have bad news, there is a problem with the design of the feed ramps that cannot be fixed easily. Polish the feed ramps with a felt tip and rouge on a Dremel and it may fix it. Others have suggested MIG welding or brazing a small ramp and Dremeling it to shape. Proceed at your own discretion.

b. This can also be a problem caused by a slightly out of spec barrel. The barrel around the chamber cut should have a bevel about 1/8" wide. You can widen it slightly with a small file and polish it with fine sandpaper and then a felt tip and rouge on a dremel.

4. No apparent movement of bolt or carrier regardless of gas setting

a. Check that the gas plug is in the “A” position.

b. You DID remember to put the gas piston back in, didn’t you?

c. Check to make sure the gas tube is pinned in place and has not rotated. Ideally, the exhaust ports in the gas tube should be at 8 o’clock and 4 o’clock but if they are at 10 and 2, it will not affect operation.

d. Ensure that the gas port is not obstructed.

e. Check that gas piston is not undersized or worn. Proper diameter is between 0.429” and 0.431”.

f. Excess leakage around gas tube, see No. 6

g. Check that the bolt carrier “rat tail” is straight and in the recoil plunger detent and not jammed against the back of the lower receiver when closed.

h. Take the gas piston spring out and roll the piston on a flat surface to check for straightness. Reinstall the gas piston with the bolt and carrier removed. The piston should fall freely through the gas cylinder and gas nut. If not check gas tube and gas nut for roundness and damage.

i. Check for cracked gas block.

j. Make sure you haven't put a metric gas plug in an inch gas block. A metric gas plug is about 3/16" longer than the inch plug. The gas plugs are not interchangeable. This hardly seems likely because your piston would protrude and prevent the carrier from going all the way forward.

5. Partial extraction of spent casing regardless of gas setting, casing jams hard in chamber

a. This is most often a problem of not enough gas. What is REALLY happening is that the spent casing is going back a small distance and then being pushed back forward into the chamber and shares solutions with No. 4. c, d, e, and f above.

b. Check that the gas piston moves freely. See 4. h above.

c. Check that carrier moves freely. See 2. a, b, and c above.

6. Gas tube blows out of gas block. This is a common problem in the G1 kits and the solution is both simple and cheap.

a. First, clean the thread of the gas block and gas cylinder and spread a small amount of solder flux on the threads.

b. Install and pin the gas tube with the exhaust ports at 4 and 8 o’clock on the rifle as if you are preparing to shoot it without the gas piston or spring installed.

c. Using Mapp gas, heat the threaded area and apply silver solder (preferably high temp silver solder because it is stronger) until it flows into the joint.

d. After the area cools, clean the excess flux off the area (some flux is acid based) and you may file the high spots off the solder with a small file if your solder job isn’t too pretty or interferes with the gas regulator.

e. With a Dremel cut off wheel, cut the gas tube off about 2 inches from the back of the tube (the end closest to the receiver) and discard it. Use sandpaper to smooth the end off.

7. I've done all the stuff to get more gas but my FAL STILL won't cycle properly

a. Okay, one more trick to get more bleed gas. Remove the gas plug, piston, spring and tube, and the front sight, spring, and index plate for a metric rifle. Put a 1/4" wooden dowel down the barrel.

Note: Metric barrel gas ports are drilled perpendicular to the barrel and you gain access to the gas port by removing the front sight. Inch barrel gas ports are drilled at an angle through the regulator hole on the gas block, just under the gas regulator.

b. Starting with a #41 or so drill bit insert it BY HAND through the bleed hole in the gas block and use it to determine the size of the gas port hole in your barrel.

c. Once you have determined the approximate diameter of your gas port hole, take the next larger drill bit and use it to ream the hole out. Keep the drill speed slow and use plenty of cutting fluid and you will be less likely to break your drill bit off in the hole.

d. Test the function of the rifle once you have gone up a couple of sizes. You should see some improvement. You can increase the size of the hole up to about 0.125" until you get enough gas for proper operation.


8. Bolt closes easily on headspace gauge but will not chamber round. Jams up tight.

a. Does a cartridge fit into the chamber when you feed it by hand?

No. Clean chamber thoroughly. Ensure cartridge is in spec. Lastly, you may need to ream the chamber slightly.

Yes. It could be the top rear edge of the bolt binding up against the top inside of the carrier. Put a piece of Playdoh or some other putty on the inside top rear of the bolt carrier and then put the bolt in the carrier. Put them both in the receiver and try to push it closed with a cartridge in the bolt until it binds. Pull the bolt and carrier out and observe the Playdoh. Is it pinched all the way to the carrier? If so, file a small amount off the top rear of the bolt until it clears.
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Last edited by Mosin Guy; January 06, 2013 at 14:48.
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Old January 06, 2013, 11:34   #4
keith9365
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Nope, gas port alignment isn' t it. I can push a tooth pick down through the gas block into the barrel.
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Old January 06, 2013, 11:39   #5
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Originally Posted by keith9365 View Post
Nope, gas port alignment isn' t it. I can push a tooth pick down through the gas block into the barrel.


Hi Keith, did you check the gas ring?! My L1A1 after 60 rounds didn't cycle, and I found the ring cracked

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Old January 06, 2013, 11:50   #6
keith9365
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Ill check that. Also i read the gas ports on the gas tube should be at 4 and 8 oclock. Mine look like 9 and 3 to me.
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Old January 06, 2013, 12:15   #7
Marcello
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Originally Posted by keith9365 View Post
Ill check that. Also i read the gas ports on the gas tube should be at 4 and 8 oclock. Mine look like 9 and 3 to me.
The ring was at 3 when I had this problem but I got my L1A1 from another owner, and nobody knows how many rounds it fired before me
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Old January 06, 2013, 13:35   #8
keith9365
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I mean the vents that run along the gas tube under the handguards are 9 and3 o' clock.
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Old January 06, 2013, 13:47   #9
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Is the gas tube pin in place?
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Old January 06, 2013, 14:00   #10
Marcello
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is the "gas plug" in right position?!

or is the gas tube cleaned from, rust, dust, smoke, soot ?!


Last edited by Marcello; January 06, 2013 at 14:09.
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Old January 06, 2013, 15:34   #11
keith9365
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is the "gas plug" in right position?!

or is the gas tube cleaned from, rust, dust, smoke, soot ?!

The gas plug is in correctly, and I see a pin running through the gas block at the gas tube. I cleaned and lubricated the gun before I went to shoot it. It has me stumped. All my experience is with AK, M4 type weapons. I did notice that if I even slightly ride the bolt when chambering it wont go into battery until I drop the mag and jiggle the charging handle. But like I said, I can chamber a round, drop the mag and fire, and the bolt recoils back about half an inch. Then I usually have to bump the charging handle with a boot to eject the case.
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Old January 06, 2013, 15:49   #12
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if you remove the gas plug, and you push manually the piston does it slides well inside the tube (w/o "interferences") with its spring until bumping on the bolt (do it w/o bolt simulating the cycle), is the piston perfect or a little folded
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Old January 06, 2013, 15:55   #13
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Typical sign of Not enough gas to work the action
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Old January 06, 2013, 18:26   #14
Marcello
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check this out, somebody else has same problem in another forum

http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/vie...584b4a505a7931

his FAL doesn't cycle
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Old January 13, 2013, 17:10   #15
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Originally Posted by Marcello View Post
Hi Keith, did you check the gas ring?! My L1A1 after 60 rounds didn't cycle, and I found the ring cracked

My L1A1 is also not cycling. But looking at this photo, I am now wondering... my gas selector looks a bit different. In the photo it looks like the hole is only fully exposed when the setting is all the way open (ie the half oval cut out, I guess setting '12'?) Anyway, on mine, the hole is fully exposed on the last three or four settings. Those last three or four don't seem to me to make any difference, in other words, as the gas hole is fully exposed on all of them.

So, now I'm wondering if there is a problem with the selector?

Also, the vent holes on the gas tube on mine are at 9 and 3 o'clock.
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Old January 13, 2013, 17:21   #16
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So, now I'm wondering if there is a problem with the selector?
doubt it, if it is in one piece and rotates there is nothing wrong with the regulator.

Quote:
Also, the vent holes on the gas tube on mine are at 9 and 3 o'clock.
Doesn't matter, just means tha the gas will be vented down into the handguards rather than out the slots of the handguards, Does not effect function in any way.

What position is you regulator in? Do you have the regulator completely covering the hole? That is the position of maximum gas. The selector above is in the position of the lowest gas setting. The numbers on the regulator are the opposite of what you would think, 1 = more gas to the piston, 11 = less gas to the piston. Most rifles will operate around the 3 setting but with old worn parts and gas leaks you may need to go all the way down to 1.

You can check your gas port size by inserting drill bits down through the port into the barrel until you find the largest size that will fit.





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Old January 13, 2013, 17:31   #17
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What position is you regulator in? Do you have the regulator completely covering the hole? That is the position of maximum gas. The selector above is in the position of the lowest gas setting. The numbers on the regulator are the opposite of what you would think, 1 = more gas to the piston, 11 = less gas to the piston. Most rifles will operate around the 3 setting but with old worn parts and gas leaks you may need to go all the way down to 1.
Well, that's what I'm saying. When my gas regulator hits about 7 or 8, the hole is fully exposed. If I go to 9, 10, or 11, the hole is still exposed - those last 4 settings make no difference in how much of the hole is exposed. In other words, my gas regulator ring looks like it sits further back that the one in the pic.

Just wondering about that.

Anyways, I noticed today it again failed to cycle (haven't got it to cycle yet), and THIS time it was really hard to manually extract the fired round. My extractor is working as far as i know, because manually it cycles (by hand) decently. The bolt carrier moves back a hair, but no ticky no extracty.

Question: Would I need to replace the gas tube? Or just remove and reinstall the tube? Or does it all depend?
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Old January 13, 2013, 19:05   #18
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my regulators are the same way, you aren't going to be running on those positions anyway, as long as you can rotate the regulator and the hole gets completely covered that's all that matters.. What number are you running on right now when it does operate? have you done the other things such as verified gas port size? Another troubleshooting tip to determine if the gas tube threads are worn is to remove the gas tube and then wrap plumbers tape around the threads and then reinstall. The tape should provide a tight seal on the tbe.
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Old January 13, 2013, 19:15   #19
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I have the exact same problem, I'm 99% sure the problem is gas related
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Old January 13, 2013, 20:23   #20
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try to clean inside the gas tube, as if you clean inside the barrel, maybe smoke powder or rust, maybe the piston doesn't slides well, try so check the spring (time to replace it?)

@TheOtherTinMan "Anyways, I noticed today it again failed to cycle (haven't got it to cycle yet), and THIS time it was really hard to manually extract the fired round. My extractor is working as far as i know, because manually it cycles (by hand) decently. The bolt carrier moves back a hair, but no ticky no extracty.

You told this time was really hard to manually extract the fired round ... WAIT WAIT WAIT ! which ammo did you use? reoloaded? commercial? how many grains?!

another trick, check the position of the gas plug, in one position your SLR or FAL fires in semiauto, if turned in wrong position it fires like a "bolt action"


the right position of the gas plus is when the large spring pin is on the left as showed in the picture, if you have the small part of the pin, it means that is in the wrong position, and your rifle fires single shot w/o cycling

Last edited by Marcello; January 13, 2013 at 20:33.
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Old January 14, 2013, 00:21   #21
keith9365
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try to clean inside the gas tube, as if you clean inside the barrel, maybe smoke powder or rust, maybe the piston doesn't slides well, try so check the spring (time to replace it?)

@TheOtherTinMan "Anyways, I noticed today it again failed to cycle (haven't got it to cycle yet), and THIS time it was really hard to manually extract the fired round. My extractor is working as far as i know, because manually it cycles (by hand) decently. The bolt carrier moves back a hair, but no ticky no extracty.

You told this time was really hard to manually extract the fired round ... WAIT WAIT WAIT ! which ammo did you use? reoloaded? commercial? how many grains?!

another trick, check the position of the gas plug, in one position your SLR or FAL fires in semiauto, if turned in wrong position it fires like a "bolt action"


the right position of the gas plus is when the large spring pin is on the left as showed in the picture, if you have the small part of the pin, it means that is in the wrong position, and your rifle fires single shot w/o cycling
My gas plug is in correctly, The vent is clear, the piston is straight and I can push it down with a rod and cycle the action. I was shooting american tactical 7.62x51 150 grain loads. The action wouldnt cycle on any setting. The carrier would come back about 1/4" and I would have to pogo the charging handle to get the case out.
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Old January 14, 2013, 21:39   #22
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@TheOtherTinMan "Anyways, I noticed today it again failed to cycle (haven't got it to cycle yet), and THIS time it was really hard to manually extract the fired round. My extractor is working as far as i know, because manually it cycles (by hand) decently. The bolt carrier moves back a hair, but no ticky no extracty.

You told this time was really hard to manually extract the fired round ... WAIT WAIT WAIT ! which ammo did you use? reoloaded? commercial? how many grains?!
Not sure off hand, I think it was either GGG or maybe MEN, M80 ball ammo (147 gr milsurp). It does the same with Aussie or SA.

I did some checking with the gas piston spring removed. The piston slides fine, except in one position. If it's sliding through the tube fine, then I rotate the piston maybe 1/4 turn, I find that it tends to stick... if I tap the bottom near the receiver end it will bounce up and then by gravity fall through but if I push it real slow and easy it will stick, ever so much. I can't imagine it being enough friction to stop it from cycling tho... it's barely noticeable except in just the right position... I then used my metric gas piston from my metric rifle (which functions great) and ti had the same issue... so I'm thinking maybe the gas tube is pinched or slightly dented somewhere... but then would it matter how I rotate the piston around it's axis? The piston looks straight as an arrow as far as I can tell.
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Old January 15, 2013, 03:11   #23
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Not sure off hand, I think it was either GGG or maybe MEN, M80 ball ammo (147 gr milsurp). It does the same with Aussie or SA.

I did some checking with the gas piston spring removed. The piston slides fine, except in one position. If it's sliding through the tube fine, then I rotate the piston maybe 1/4 turn, I find that it tends to stick... if I tap the bottom near the receiver end it will bounce up and then by gravity fall through but if I push it real slow and easy it will stick, ever so much. I can't imagine it being enough friction to stop it from cycling tho... it's barely noticeable except in just the right position... I then used my metric gas piston from my metric rifle (which functions great) and ti had the same issue... so I'm thinking maybe the gas tube is pinched or slightly dented somewhere... but then would it matter how I rotate the piston around it's axis? The piston looks straight as an arrow as far as I can tell.
did you clean the gas tube with a bore brush?!
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Old January 15, 2013, 12:04   #24
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did you clean the gas tube with a bore brush?!
Actually, now that you mention it, I have a vague recollection of doing something LIKE that a year or so ago, but honestly I can't be sure... IF I did such a thing (mea culpa!) does that mean I need a new gas tube?
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Old January 15, 2013, 14:44   #25
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I don't know if your gas tube is scratched because you used a bore brush, replace a gas tube is simply, and I think find one in the States it is very easy, or not? Or try with somebody else gastube?
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Old January 15, 2013, 16:12   #26
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Have you visually inspected to make sure the gas tube pin hasn't fallen out? If it fell out, it won't cycle.
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Old January 21, 2013, 17:11   #27
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So I dissembled the rifle. My gas tube looks fine as far as I can tell. The gas port hole in the barrel etc looks fine (not blocked, etc). I had mentioned how the gas piston seemed to hang up in a certain spot in the tube if I turned it a certain way. With the gas nut loosened, no binding. A little experimentation later and I discovered the handguard ring seems to be putting pressure on the gas nut, causing the piston to bind ever so slightly in certain positions. After adjusting everything I could, seems that problem has been mitigated.

Maybe i just need a new gas tube?

Someone mentioned if the gas tube pin is missing the rifle will not cycle. My gas tube pin is there, but seems to be flush on one side of the hole and more deeply set on the other side. Perhaps it is needs to be pushed further in? Or perhaps the pin is worn and allowing gas to seep out?

Anyway, I notice that when the rifle is uncocked, it is pretty hard to cycle (manually) the bolt back. Seems as if the hammer spring is too 'tight' or stiff or something? It is definitely harder than my metric rifle. I am thinking the bolt carrier moves back until it contacts the hammer, then cannot overcome the hammer spring, thus preventing cycling.

Is this possible? Likely? Common? Crazy?
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Old January 21, 2013, 18:52   #28
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So I dissembled the rifle. My gas tube looks fine as far as I can tell. The gas port hole in the barrel etc looks fine (not blocked, etc). I had mentioned how the gas piston seemed to hang up in a certain spot in the tube if I turned it a certain way. With the gas nut loosened, no binding. A little experimentation later and I discovered the handguard ring seems to be putting pressure on the gas nut, causing the piston to bind ever so slightly in certain positions. After adjusting everything I could, seems that problem has been mitigated.

Maybe i just need a new gas tube?

Someone mentioned if the gas tube pin is missing the rifle will not cycle. My gas tube pin is there, but seems to be flush on one side of the hole and more deeply set on the other side. Perhaps it is needs to be pushed further in? Or perhaps the pin is worn and allowing gas to seep out?

Anyway, I notice that when the rifle is uncocked, it is pretty hard to cycle (manually) the bolt back. Seems as if the hammer spring is too 'tight' or stiff or something? It is definitely harder than my metric rifle. I am thinking the bolt carrier moves back until it contacts the hammer, then cannot overcome the hammer spring, thus preventing cycling.

Is this possible? Likely? Common? Crazy?
I have no more ideas ... I am speechles ... I surrender
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Old January 22, 2013, 04:47   #29
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I noticed my gas plug wiggles a little on the block. Should it be real tight? Can you see the difference if the gun has a metric plug in it? First FAL.
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Old January 22, 2013, 05:03   #30
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I noticed my gas plug wiggles a little on the block. Should it be real tight? Can you see the difference if the gun has a metric plug in it? First FAL.

mine too wiggles a little but the spring pin keep it there
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Old January 23, 2013, 01:34   #31
TheOtherTinMan
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Originally Posted by Marcello View Post
I have no more ideas ... I am speechles ... I surrender
Never surrender! Never give in! (insert Churchill's famous speech here)

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Old January 23, 2013, 05:28   #32
Marcello
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Originally Posted by TheOtherTinMan View Post
Never surrender! Never give in! (insert Churchill's famous speech here)



Yes Sir, NEVER GIVE UP!
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Old February 21, 2013, 18:16   #33
Marcello
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Hey Keith, did you fix your rifle?! Now I have same your problem
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Old February 23, 2013, 14:22   #34
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I havn't been able to mess with it. I have been in Japan for 2 months and just got home.
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Old February 23, 2013, 14:38   #35
Marcello
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I havn't been able to mess with it. I have been in Japan for 2 months and just got home.


so ... welcome back!

sorry for the "cross post" http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347895
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Old February 23, 2013, 15:00   #36
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Well you got me thinking about it. I took the gas tube and nut off. All looks clean and shiney. I hope to shoot sunday and see if its ok.
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Old February 23, 2013, 17:24   #37
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Gas System Problems

Keith, I had the same problem with my L1A1 a few months ago. I built it myself. I had it parkerized. On the lowest setting(all gas to piston) it would fire, and would not extract. Carrier would go back half way. I made sure everything was clean. Checked gas holes. All clear. My gas piston tube holes are at the 3 and 9 o'clock position. From all L1A1's that I've seen thats normal. Mine has 4 holes. All at 3 and 9 o'clock positions. My gas piston tube does move a little. Thats normal because you back out the tube until holes are aligned. My problem was with the new finish. I cycled the bolt manually about 200 times and lubricated with L1A1 grease. Works great haven't had any problems since. Shot over 400 rounds through it zero malfunctions. Lubricate, Lubricate, Lubricate. Hope this helps. Iyaoyas1
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Old February 23, 2013, 17:39   #38
Marcello
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@ Iyaoyas1 my L1A1 is pretty oiled, my gas tube has 4 holes too 2 at 3 and 9 o'clock next the gas block and other 2 at the same position 3 and 9 o'clock next the back
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Old February 23, 2013, 17:48   #39
Iyaoyas1
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Keith, is your barrel and gas block from the same year? Mine is. My philosophy is my kit came off from a working rifle so if its built right it should work again. Iyaoyas1
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Old February 23, 2013, 21:31   #40
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You may have an Indian gas regulator, they are slightly larger.
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Old February 24, 2013, 09:36   #41
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I really havn't checked parts year of manufacture or origin that close on my rifle yet. I went to Japan for 2 months and came home for Christmas for 2 weeks, then back to Japan for 2 months again. I just got home last Friday. I found the rifle and bought it over my Christmas break. I am learning alot from this forum and you tube about breaking down this gun. Like I said I took the gas tube pin, nut, and tube out. I cleaned and inspected the threads. All look ok with no stripping or cracks. All the working parts in the bolt and rails have a good coat of grease. I hope to shoot some today if this friggin rain will ever stop.
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Old February 24, 2013, 10:47   #42
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If you can turn the gas reg easily with your hand it may be the "Indian" , they look almost Identical to Aussie/Brit but the finish is not quite as nice. And as a fellow FAL member pointed out and I quote " does it have curry on it"

Last edited by must1990; February 24, 2013 at 10:48. Reason: added the word not
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Old February 24, 2013, 17:40   #43
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I think a lose regulator is the problem. It turns very easily, and I can see powder fouling up the back of the gas block to the front sight. I fired 40 rounds today, all on single shot no matter the setting. The bolt recoils about 1/2 an inch back then I have to FORCE it the rest of the way back to eject. Im also wondering about the carrier running out of gas before it can over come the resistance to cocking the hammer? Anyway....still tinkering with it.
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Old February 24, 2013, 18:55   #44
must1990
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I don't Know if this will work, you can take the had guards off , pull the gas reg. away from the gas block and tape a piece doubled/ tripled tin foil or a shim over the gas port try 1-2 shots to see if it cycles. If another member has a picture of both types of regulators, you can get a positive ID.

just a thought.

Thank you

Dan
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