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Case lube effects on pressure

Eeben

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I have to use more spray on lube than I'd prefer to ensure that .308 cases don't get stuck in my die. I don't have a dry tumbler so after I load the rounds I'll take a damp cloth and wipe the case of the completed round. Am I wasting my time doing this? Is there zero effect of residual lube left on the case?
 

brunop

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I don't think you're wasting your time on that.

I'm not an expert on this topic, but I've had oil build up in the chamber to not-great-effect.

If I don't like the 'cleanliness' of the reloads, I wipe them down with a micro-fiber towel. I don't want lube collecting dust or other goodies before they get in the gun.
 

ByronF

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What lube are you using? Are you letting the lube dry a bit before sizing? One-Shot needs a minute or three to dry out or the case will stick. The propellant leaves a wet solvent that is the opposite of lube. Once it flashes away leaving behind just the lube the cases will not stick. I have never needed "extra" lube.

Lube will not increase pressure but it will reduce case grip against chamber walls. If not tumbling I'd wipe down the cases.
 

Eeben

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I don't think you're wasting your time on that.

I'm not an expert on this topic, but I've had oil build up in the chamber to not-great-effect.

If I don't like the 'cleanliness' of the reloads, I wipe them down with a micro-fiber towel. I don't want lube collecting dust or other goodies before they get in the gun.
Yeah I also thought it seemed like greater likelihood of attracting particles.
 

TerryN

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In the past, I have been known to lay just-sized brass on an old towel, and thoroughly apply some type of solvent (denatured alcohol, etc.) to the towel, and wipe the brass down. I don't scrub each and every piece of brass by hand - I rely on contact with the towel to remove the lube. That works pretty well, especially if you spray Gun Scrubber or similar on it.
 

W.E.G.

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I use RCBS Case Lube II.

Water based lube.

Size the brass.

Put a hundred or several hundred cases in a bucket.

Run hot water in the bucket.

Swish-Swish the bucket.

Dump the water.

Repeat 3x.

Dump the wet brass on a beach towel.

Push the brass from one end of the beach towel to the other.

Put brass in a cardboard box and shaky-shaky. You can throw a few dry washcloths in the box it you want to absorb some water, and mitigate any case mouths being deformed from the shaky-shaky. I'm gentle on the shaky-shaky, so I don't damage case mouths. The little bit of water that is thrown off during shaky-shaky is absorbed by the cardboard.

Lay brass out (more boxes) for 48 hours in a low-humidity environment.

Put sized brass into storage buckets, or reload it immediately if you don't have 10,000 other pieces already ready-to-go.
 

Deltaten

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Seeking alternatives to generally available case lubes....
I used some Imperial case wax years ago. Now I'm looking at my can of Collinite Fleet Wax (Carnuba) and wondering ?
Same goes for spritz can of dry silicone lube....
Water-based? Anybody ever try loading up the roller pad with K-Y or Astro-lube?
Not gonna try any 'till I get a stuck case removal tool. ;)
 

W.E.G.

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I use the cardboard box-tops from 10-reem copier-paper boxes.
I bet your local print shop (Kinkos, Fed-Ex printing, etc.) would hook you up with copier paper boxes for free, or next to nothing.

If you don't want to put up with having a bunch of random shaky-shaky boxes in your garage, you can get yourself a six-pack of these for about $22 at Amazon.


61J-RG+9XdL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 

STG_58_guy

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What lube are you using? Are you letting the lube dry a bit before sizing? One-Shot needs a minute or three to dry out or the case will stick. The propellant leaves a wet solvent that is the opposite of lube. Once it flashes away leaving behind just the lube the cases will not stick. I have never needed "extra" lube.

Lube will not increase pressure but it will reduce case grip against chamber walls. If not tumbling I'd wipe down the cases.
I didn't know this and I wonder if I've been going overboard on application. Trying to keep the cases greasy?
 

STG_58_guy

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Time for a tumbler my friend. Cases should be totally free of lube before seating your bullets. My preference is a wet tumbler with ss pins and a good dryer before seating. Whatta Hobby!
I've read that you should lube your bullets before seating. Your advice is the opposite. I tend to believe you,Art. What are 'they' talking about? To prevent setback or any movement of you bullet, no lube makes sense to me.
 

ByronF

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Ever get dimpled shoulders? Had that happen with Dad's d 30-06 dies. Use of RCBS lube on ink pad, too much, plugged vent hole on side of the die. Air pressure dimpled the shoulders.
 

ArtBanks

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I've read that you should lube your bullets before seating. Your advice is the opposite. I tend to believe you,Art. What are 'they' talking about? To prevent setback or any movement of you bullet, no lube makes sense to me.
I might lube black powder bullets during production and patches for round balls, but nothing else. Consistency of ignition relies on neck tension and seating depth which would be defeated by lube. Whatta Hobby!
 

lew

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Get a dry media tumbler. Throw the loaded cartridges in for 10-15 minutes to get the lube off. Problem solved.

Stay away from Hornady One Stuck 'lube'. Use a lanolin-based spray lube, and let it dry 15+ minutes so the alcohol can evaporate.
 

W.E.G.

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Ever get dimpled shoulders? Had that happen with Dad's d 30-06 dies. Use of RCBS lube on ink pad, too much, plugged vent hole on side of the die. Air pressure dimpled the shoulders.
YES.

Unsightly. But harmless.

The rifle DOES NOT CARE if the ammunition is not shiny, and blemished.

I’ve fired hundreds - if not THOUSANDS - of rounds with one degree or another of shoulder dents. NOT. ONE. ISSUE.

I apply RCBS Case Lube II with my bare hands. I over-do it a smidgen sometimes.
 
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TerryN

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I've read that you should lube your bullets before seating. Your advice is the opposite. I tend to believe you,Art. What are 'they' talking about? To prevent setback or any movement of you bullet, no lube makes sense to me.
Maybe cast bullets. You typically lube them simultaneously with sizing them to the desired diameter.
 

ByronF

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YES.

Unsightly. But harmless.

The rifle DOES NOT CARE if the ammunition is not shiny, and blemished.

I’ve fired hundreds-if not THOUSANDS of rounds with one degree or another of shoulder dents. NOT. ONE. ISSUE.

I apply RCBS Case Lube II with my bare hands. I over-do it a smidgen sometimes.
Stubbornness and retardation are not the same thing, and neither are necessarily virtues. Stick a pin in the vent hole to clear the schmegma and you won't shit up your shoulders no matter how much lube you use, until the hole gets blocked again, which never happens if one doesn't go nuts with lube.
 

V guy

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Hatcher did a study of lubed cases in "Hatchers Notebook."

During Nat' Matches, Soldiers were greasing their cartridges for easier extraction.......but bolt lugs were shearing..........

They studied the matter and understood, like Art Banks mentioned above, that the brass has to stick to the chamber, mometarily, to prevent excessive bolt back thrust.

Clean brass........no lube.
 

Eeben

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In the past, I have been known to lay just-sized brass on an old towel, and thoroughly apply some type of solvent (denatured alcohol, etc.) to the towel, and wipe the brass down. I don't scrub each and every piece of brass by hand - I rely on contact with the towel to remove the lube. That works pretty well, especially if you spray Gun Scrubber or similar on it.
I'm using Royal Case and Die Lube right now. I've used the Lee stuff and I'd prefer a spray.
 

W.E.G.

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Stubbornness and retardation are not the same thing, and neither are necessarily virtues. Stick a pin in the vent hole to clear the schmegma and you won't shit up your shoulders no matter how much lube you use, until the hole gets blocked again, which never happens if one doesn't go nuts with lube.

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